Magic Walks 49
Starting at Cheung Chau, we take the walla walla to Tai Long
Wan on Chi Ma Wan Peninsula, then walk via Sea Ranch to Pui O.
Walk from pier at Tai Long Wan to Pui O is 7km. Whole day is
needed including ferry rides. As long as you have suitable
footwear and it does not rain, the degree of difficulty is a
2, and suitable for older people and children.
The beach at Sea Ranch
As so much has changed on Lantau Island before and after the
new international airport was completed, the new issue of
volume 3 (due out in autumn 2000) will be change a lot.
The walk we are making today is therefore a combination of two
of the existing walks listed in the old book, with a twist. We
start out at the new Central reclamation pier (close to Star
Ferry and the Airport Expresse) to go to Cheung Chau. Ferries
are just about every half an hour early in the morning, fast
or slow. Exact ferry hours from tel. 21318011. We strongly
recommend that you take the slow ferry, so you can can sit
outside or on the lower deck and enjoy the noodles and
mediocre coffee or tea. The new operator New World First
Ferries has installed bus seats, so you will enjoy the ride.
When arriving at Cheung Chau, the best way to savour this
little haven's atmosphere is to wander around for an hour
along the waterfront and the main beach, and have a drink
outside one of the many small restaurants. Turn left at the
pier along Pak She Praya Road until you reach the open space
in front of the Pak Tai Temple, the Taoist God most venerated
on this island. The temple is well-maintained and worth a
lengthy visit. From there cut north to the beach. On the
south-east side of the beach near the Warwick Hotel you will
find ancient Rock Carvings of uncertain origins, but certainly
more than 2,000 years old.
The motorised sampans locally referred to as 'walla walla' can
be found on the left side of the ferry. You should bargain,
but certainly not pay more than HK$100 to get to Tai Long Wan
beach on the Chi Ma Wan Peninsula, a 15 mins ride away, even
if there are 12-15 people in your group. Bargaining is a great
Hong Kong pastime, and if you cannot get the price you want,
or are suddenly fearful of riding the waves in these small
crafts, it is always possible to take the main ferry to either
Chi Ma Wan prison or to Mui Wo on Lantau.
Russian tourists land at Chi Ma Wan
But they only go several times a day.
You will also then need the Lantau map
from the Government Printer, as you might get easily lost.
Once you land at Tai Long Wan, you should make your way to the
beach. Unfortunately, the hilarious Frog & Toad Restaurant and
Pub that was located in this village has closed down due to
insufficient patronage after the slow exodus of 40% of the
expatriates after the handover. They were the main customers
on the weekend, although two successive publicans rivalled
them for consumption of alcoholic liquids. The Mud Olympics
held here once a year always attracted huge crowds.
The beach at Tai Long Wan is good to swim at, but the one next
to the Sea Ranch on the west side is even better and is also
open to the public. To get there, take the path that starts
about 100m from the end of the beach which is a contour trail.
The Sea Ranch itself is a private development though.
The climb from the second beach to Pui O is a bit steep at
first, but the views over Shek Kwu Chau, Cheung Chau and the
sea lanes that lead to Macau are really worth the bit of
exercise. You cannot get lost. Whenever you reach a fork in
the path turn left. About halfway you will come to a private
holiday villa and a Youth Hostel. When you approach Pui O,
there are at least three houses in the first village that will
sell you drinks. Reasonable lunch is served along the main
road. The village has a lot of expatriate residents, so you
will have no language problems.
If there is enough time left, you may consider visiting the
big Buddha statue at Ngong Ping which can be reached by taking
bus no. 2. Mui Wo and the ferry back to town is in the other
direction. If you decide to visit the largest Buddhist Temple
in Hong Kong, then it is best to take back the bus to Tung
Chung and from there the MTR to town. This journey will prove
an exotic visit to two of the most exciting islands in Hong
Kong, with one of the easiest but also finest coastal walks.
On the way down from Lantau Peak