Magic Walks 30
Walk from Shek O via Big Wave Bay to Chai Wan is about 7km (3.5 hours including transport). Difficulty grade : 3
Family outing on Dragon's Back near Shek O
Secluded from the rest of Hong Kong by mountains and the sea on all sides, Shek O gives the visitor the distinct impression that he has arrived in a holiday resort in Malaysia. Apart from the population not much would make you think that you are in Hong Kong. The pace of life is slower. The only branch of the Hongkong Bank closed a few years ago because there was not enough business. There is a golf course along the coast. All of these are indications of a different attitude to life.
To get there, take CMB no. 9 from Shau Kei Wan MTR station. It leaves every 10-12 minutes. To get the best view on the way, seat yourself on the upper deck on the righthand side. You will enjoy the sight over Tai Tam Bay, Red Hill and Stanley Fort. Although the new bus operator has upgraded most of the buses on this route (and even added a bus that comes all the way from Central at certain hours), by sitting on the right you will escape the occasional fate of ignorant travellers who get hit by the branches on the left side that sweep through open windows on this mountain road.
When the bus reaches the end of the road above Tai Tam Quarry, it will make a 180 degree turn and you will have your first taste of the marvellous beach at Shek O and the scenic village next to it. By all means stay until the last stop, alight and spend some time on the beach. The water is better these days. There have been years when pollution and red tide made swimming hazardous. For even better swimming you could wait until we get to Big Wave Bay, where surfing can be done on most days around the year. Walk around Shek O village and the promontory called Shek O Headland. Overlooking the South China Sea is a church that boasts one of the finest locations for a religious institution in Hong Kong. There is a decent Chinese restaurant in Shek O New Village right next to the beach that prepares and serves food at competitive prices including seafood. Next to the large parking lot several new eateries (including a good Thai one) have opened up that cater to tourists and locals alike. Prices vary.
Bird's-eye view of Shek O
To reach Big Wave Bay you have to walk along the road the bus came on the way in and past the golf course. Several of its holes are perched above the sea. I played there several times and can assure you that it is easy to lose balls in the water. It will take you a good 20 mins walk from the village to the next bay. If the sun is shining, a dip, sunbathing and a drink is an excellent idea.
Climbing is good for your circulation and this walk will be no exception on that score. Take the path and concrete steps on the far side of the beach that lead along the sea into the hills. Although the Hong Kong Trail recommended by the Country Park Authority is easier, the one we will take will provide you quicker with better sights, and with the opportunity of taking a few unforgettable photos on a bright and sunny day. If you are interested in history, do not fail to look at the primitive Rock Carvings at the start of the path. Local historians believe that they are several thousand years old, as the images correspond to tools and utensils dug up along the shoreline. Below on the right you will notice well laid out buildings which used to be Army territory, but now have been a prison for young offenders for a number of years. Until the late 1980s it housed Vietnamese boat people: the Cape Collinson Correctional Institution. You cannot go wrong on this path. Someone has applied blue paint to the rocks. Turn around and admire the view over the golf course and Shek O from yet another angle. Take a rest when you reach several large rocks.
You have now covered three quarters of the climb. The path then evens out until you reach the catchwater (a typical Hongkong concept). Turn right and follow it 100 m until you see a path going up on the other side. A one foot wide piece of wood allows you easy passage. Keep following the blue spots all the way. When you reach the crest it is time for another rest. Turn right and sit down on one of the many rocks that overlook the entire entrance from the South China Sea (Waglan Island, Sung Kong and part of Po Toi from East to West) looking back; the Clearwater Bay Golf & Country Club and Tung Lung Chau Island through which many pleasure crafts pass on weekends just opposite you; then Junk Bay and its new development with most of the former Rennie's Mill just out of sight; and finally Lei Yue Mun and the flight path of the old Kai Tak airport with the Kowloon Peak and Lion Rock right behind it. The aircraft stopped flying from here on 05 July 1998; that was always an impressive sight.
The last stretch can become slippery when it has been raining. It is just 30 m down to the road that leads to Cape Collinson prison. Go left towards Chai Wan. You will get to the biggest cemetary in Hong Kong. The crematorium is nearby (you passed it on the way to Shek O). As soon as you get into the open, you will get a clear view of Mount Parker, its beacon and radar station. At that point there is a protective rail on the path. Immediately on the right you will notice a set of stairs leading down to street level. Halfway you could also turn left to arrive in yet another squatter village where you will be greeted by many dogs whose barking will tell you that this is their territory. It is easiest to take the right fork, then cross the road to the parallel main street that will lead you straight to Chai Wan MTR.
Our Austrian, German and Swiss friends courtesy of CX